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Build A Stair - Home Improvement Project Plan
Here you will find easy step by step instructions on how to build a stair,
supplies required, safety precautions and other helpful tips.
Rating: 4
This is one of our easy home improvement projects.
1 = Super Easy ...............10 = Complex
SAFETY FIRST! Working on carpentry to build a stair seems more difficult
than it really is. The most important thing to remember is to "measure accurately twice and cut once".
- Remember to respect all power tools. If used inappropriately, accidents can occur.
- To build a stair, be sure to carefully measure the real room that you have to work with.
That means know the run available, the width and of course the rise. This is key to your success.
Supplies
Circular Saw (wormdrive)
Handsaw
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These pictures show the basic items you'll need to build a stair.
Orbital Sander
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Tape Measure
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Power Screwdriver/Drill
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Framing Square
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 3" Drywall Screws
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2 x 12 Pine Boards
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Alternate Treads
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1 x 8 Pine Risers
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Trammel Points
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Instructions to Build a Stair
To build a stair, you must know the precise rise and the available run so that you can build the correct stair
the first time. That is, one that will really fit correctly.
Measure the height between the floors where the new stair will go. Subtract the thickness of any
finish flooring that will go on the 1st floor. Add the thickness of any finish flooring on the 2nd floor unless
it is carpeting. Carpet doesn't matter because it too will go on each tread on the stair.
Also measure the dimension available (the length of the wall) along where the new stair will set.
Divide the rise dimension by 7.25 inches and round to the next higher whole number. This is the
number of total risers you need to get to the 2nd floor.
Take the run dimension and divide it by 10". This is the maximum number of treads that you can have
in a stair and not stick out in front of the wall that you measured. If treads stick out in front of this wall, they may interfere
with the room at the front door. You must leave at least 3 feet between the front door and the 1st riser of your stair.
The total number of treads in your stair will always be 1 less than the total number of risers.
Now you have determined what it is you need to build. I am going to assume that your rise was
107" less 3/4" for 1st floor finish flooring, carpet going on the 2nd floor (and the stair treads) and
the code dictates we use 10" for our run of this new stair. Also I am assuming that this stair will only be
36" wide and therefore needs only 2 stringers.
You are about to build a stair that has 15 risers, horsed stringers, carpet grade treads and risers,
and is considered a box stair.
Layout 2 pieces of 2 x 12 Pine boards flat on a set of sawhorses. These 2 boards need to be straight as
possible and with few knots as possible. Boards must also be at least 16 feet long to accomodate
the 15 risers required. Each rise/run combination will use about 12".
Next lay your framing square at an angle on one of the boards. Be sure and start near one end. Align the 7-1/8" mark and the 10" mark on the square
with one edge of the board. This is the rise and run that you will use to eventually climb the 15 rise stair.
Draw a pencil line along the square - again going from the 7-1/8" rise and 10" run mark. Move the square down
about 12" just to the point where you can again draw the line from the two settings. Keep doing this all along the
board until you have marked these lines on the entire length of the board.
If you have succcessfully marked the entire board, look at the images here and notice how you must cut
the 1st and 15th rise/tread to make the stair work.
This is the adjustment needed for the upper end of the stair stringer.
This is the adjustment needed for the lower end of the stair stringer.
The tread line cut at the top of the stringer must be continued all the way to the edge of the board.
Next, add one inch to the normal plumb cut line and cut at that line.
The bottom stringer cut must reduce the height of the riser by one inch (the thickness of the tread).
Cut accordingly.
Repeat the same thing exactly for the 2nd stringer. Yes, you can normally trace the outline of the stringer
on top of the uncut 2 x 12 board.
Next you need to measure the width of your drywalled stair opening. It probably is near 36" wide in a standard
house. Cut treads 35-7/8" long (if the width is 36" wide) by 11-1/4" wide (or deep). These treads should be
cut out of other 2 x 12 pine boards. You will need to cut technically 16 of these although the last one can be
35-7/8" long by 2" wide (or deep). Also cut 15 pieces of 3/4" x 7-1/8" x 35-7/8" long pine riser boards. These are
your risers. Note: one of the 15 riser pieces will be 3/4" thick by 6-1/8" x 35-7/8" long. This is the bottom
riser.
Optional Step Cut one piece of 3/4" plywood 35-7/8" by 14" wide. This piece will be used to attach your stair to the
2nd floor header unless you are anchoring the stringers directly to the wall on each side of the stair.
Assuming you are going to attach each stringer to the wall, set a stringer up against the wall and make
sure it really fits as planned. It should. If ok, then drill 3" drywall screws through the stringer and into
studs of the wall all the way up the entire length of the stringer board. Repeat for the other opposite side.
Starting at the bottom, take the narrowest riser board and place it against the 1st rise of the stringers.
Using 8d finish nails or 2" drywall screws, attach the riser board into the end grain of the lowest point of
the stringers. The bottom of the riser and stringers should all be firmly and evenly setting on the floor.
If you allowed for 3/4" flooring, place a 3/4" wood spacer under the bottom of the stringers and 1st riser
so that you can slide the finished flooring under the new stair.
Attach the 2nd riser to the stringers in the same way you did the 1st one.
Using quality wood adhesive and 3" screws, anchor the bottom tread to the top of the 1st riser and into
the stringers.
To build a stair stronger, don't forget to install 3" screws into the back of each riser into the tread below it. This will greatly
help reduce tread deflection when a heavy load is on the stair.
Proceed up the stair by installing the riser first and then the tread just below it until you reach the top.
This is where the 2" wide (mini-tread also called the "nosing") will go. Use this piece to keep all of the
overhangs on each tread and tread thicknesses looking the same.
The carpeting should extend wall to wall and cover any spaces left between the end of the tread and the
wall. This is one reason this stair construction is considered "carpenter-built" or a "carpet grade" stair. It is
referred to as box stair because it goes between two walls.
Railings can be mounted on top of the treads if there isn't any wall near the bottom portion of the new
stair.
The cost to build a stair like this should be slightly less than a pre-built factory quality box stair.
If you see any unusually rough areas, use the orbital sander to smooth them off.
If you would like more information on railings
click here.
For information on stairs click here.
If you would like information on a stair manufacturer and discover how they build a stair
click here.
Web Updates
I will continually add new improvement projects, repair and maintenance information, remodeling ideas as well as general tips and ideas for turning your house into your home.
So be sure and check back often for new additions.
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